main-image-The simplified dictionary of the watchmaking enthusiast

The simplified dictionary of the watchmaking enthusiast

In this article we have tried to summarise the main terms used in the language of watchmaking so that you can find your way around more easily and so that you can shine at social dinners.

 

  • Anti-magnetic: Generally refers to a watch that has been developed specifically to resist magnetic radiation. These electromagnetic effects are capable of permanently disrupting a watch. Some movements are for example equipped with silicium, a resistant and non-magnetic material.

 

  • Automatic: A watch mechanism that winds itself by the natural movements of the arm. These movements activate an oscillating weight called a rotor which automatically winds the movement.

 

  • Bezel: The bezel is a ring, usually metallic, located between the glass and the watch case. The bezels can be rotating, unidirectional or bidirectional. Depending on the nature of the bezel, it indicates different information (diving watch, gmt function...)

 

  • Case: Most often made of metal, it protects the movement. Its shape is generally round but it can also be square, rectangular or oval.

 

  • Folding clasp and pin buckle: These are the two systems used to close a watch bracelet. Metal bracelets are closed with a folding clasp, while other types of bracelets can be equipped with a folding clasp or a pin buckle. The pin buckle is the oldest and consists of a buckle hinged on a metal pin that fits directly into a bracelet (like a belt). The folding clasp consists of two or three metal rods that fit into each other.

 

  • Dial: The dial is a piece of metal usually located under the watch glass. The hands are placed on the dial, which generally follows the shape of the case.

 

  • Calibre or movement : The terms calibre, movement and mechanism are synonymous in watchmaking. Some brands make their own movements, which are called manufactures, while others buy existing movements.

 

  • Case back: The case back is the part below the case, the back of the watch. The case back can be transparent and show the movement or it can be solid with or without decorations.

 

  • Chronograph and split-second chronograph: The chronograph function allows the calculation of a time interval with a mechanical watch. Visually, it is characterised by two or three sub-counters that calculate the minutes and hours as well as a small second. The central second calculates the seconds and then the minutes and hours according to the number of times the dial has been turned once the chronograph is started. Chronograph watches usually have two pushers, one above the crown and one below. In principle, the upper pusher starts the chrono, while the lower one allows it to be stopped and reset. The rattrapante is an additional complication which is materialised by a second central second which allows to measure a second period without having to stop the main second hand. Once this time has elapsed, the rattrapante "catches up" with the main hand.

 

  • Chronometer (not chronograph): The chronometer function should not be confused with the chronograph function of a watch. A chronometer watch is a watch that meets the precision standards of an independent organisation, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). Being COSC certified is a guarantee of precision for a new watch.

 

  • Complications: A complication is a function displayed by a watch other than the hours or minutes. Examples include the tourbillon, chronograph, small alarm or moon phase.

 

  • COSC: COSC literally stands for "Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres". This independent organisation issues a chronometry title after a 15-day test during which the reliability and precision of a watch are evaluated. If the watch passes this test, it becomes officially COSC certified.

 

  • Crown (screwed): The crown, also known as the winder, is usually located at 3 o'clock on the outside of the case. The crown must be pulled out to wind the watch and set the date and time, using several notches. A screw-down crown is when the crown has to be screwed back into place. Screw-down crowns provide additional water resistance to the case.

 

  • Date: The date is a complication that allows the day of the month to be indicated on the watch face. It is called a "day date" when the watch displays the date (28, 29...) and the day (Monday, Thursday...).

 

  • Escapement : The escapement keeps the balance wheel moving back and forth by means of a toothed wheel.

 

  • GMT: GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time which is the reference time of the Greenwich meridian. In watchmaking, this abbreviation is a complication which means that a watch displays a second time zone simultaneously. Often a second hour hand, making one turn of the dial in 24 hours instead of 12, is used to indicate a second time zone.

 

  • Indexes: The indexes, located on the dial at each hour, are markers which replace the Arabic or Roman numerals in the form of lines, triangles, dots or circles. Sometimes 3, 6, 9 or 12 are Roman or Arabic numerals and the other markers are indexes.

 

  • Jewels: Jewels are synthetic red stones used to reduce friction on the wheel shafts of movements.

 

  • Luminova: Luminova is a coating applied in the form of a paste, usually applied to the indexes, which stores light and releases it in the dark. It makes it easier to read the time at night or in poor conditions.

 

  • Lugs: The lugs of a watch allow to link the strap to the case. There are four of them and they can be straight, curved, long or short. The width between each lugs is called the lugspace and is measured in millimetres. Thus a 20mm lugs means that a 20mm strap will fit the watch.

 

  • Manual: Manual winding watches are opposed to automatic watches because the crown must be wound for the watch to store energy

 

  • Manufacture: This term is used for brands that manufacture all the components of a watch (notably the movement). Thus this word is synonymous with quality as the movement will be the brand's own.

 

  • Minute repeater: This very complex complication allows the time to be told by means of sounds. Once the pusher is pressed, a bell indicates the hours, quarters and minutes.

 

  • Moon phase: The moon phase is a complication that indicates the lunar cycle thanks to mobile decorations representing the moon, the sky, the stars or the planets.

 

  • NATO: NATO refers to a fabric watch strap that was designed by the British Ministry of Defense in 1973 (for NATO organization). This lightweight and durable strap fits most watches and can be changed in seconds.

 

  • Oscillating weight (rotor): Also called rotor, the oscillating weight is used to wind automatic watches. It is a metal semicircle that rotates and compresses the spring, thus giving energy to the watch.

 

  • Perpetual: This term is synonymous with the word automatic. It means that the movement winds itself perpetually without the need to wind the watch manually.

 

  • Perpetual Calendar: This complication is one of the most famous. It indicates the year, the month and the day while respecting certain particularities such as bisexual years or months with 28 or 31 days.

 

  • Power reserve: This is the autonomy of a watch. It is calculated in hours, between two windings of the movement.

 

  • Pusher: This button is used to activate a complication such as the chronograph. The pushers are generally located above and below the crown.

 

  • Quartz: This technology appeared in the 1970s and almost replaced mechanical watches. Quartz is in fact an electronic movement that runs on a battery. The division of time is operated by a quartz oscillator which allows quartz movements to be much more accurate than mechanical movements.

 

  • Sapphire crystal: This is the glass mainly used for automatic watches as it is very scratch and shock resistant. It can also be used for the case back when the movement is visible.​​​​​​​

 

  • Second hand: A distinction is made between the large seconds hand, also known as the central seconds hand, and the small seconds hand, which is housed in a separate and independent dial. 

 

  • Skeleton: Skeleton watches are watches in which the dial or part of the dial has been removed to reveal the movement.

 

  • Small second: A small second is a complication where the second is independent of the hours and minutes. Most often the small second is present in a sub-dial within the main dial.

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  • Spiral: This is a very thin, elastic spring that allows the balance wheel to swing regularly.

 

  • Swiss Made: Swiss Made is a universally recognised watchmaking label which indicates that the watch has been manufactured in Switzerland. To benefit from this label, 60% of the manufacturing and final control must be carried out in Switzerland.

 

  • Tachymeter: The tachymeter, also known as a tachymeter scale, measures a speed in km/h. It calculates a speed according to the time needed to cover a certain distance.

 

  • Tourbillon: The tourbillon is a watch complication much appreciated by watch enthusiasts. It is a complication that compensates for the effects of the earth's gravity to improve the precision of the movement.

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  • Water-resistance: The water-resistance of a watch case is calculated according to its ability to withstand water and dust. Seals are often placed inside the case to increase its water resistance. Water-resistance is usually measured in ATM, one ATM corresponding to a depth of 10m.